a new woman

This is something i become every season as i decide which look i'm going to adopt or plural, because most of the time, of course, i'm in love with more than one collection/style/characer.
Last summer i wore maxi tee dresses with a leather gilet over strapped and buckled sandals and, when my feet could bear it, boots with a variety of patterned socks. I went super girly as well with layers of florals, chiffons and light and pretty colours. I liked the summer me however i feel that this summer grunge is coming back with a jumble sale beautiful twist.
This time round, whilst still remaining feminine, things are going a little edgier for summer fashion and I.
My attention was drawn to junya watanabe and kenzo and J.W Anderson layering and the boat feel was beautiful at watanabe. Combining this with the print inspirations from kenzo and i've got myself a look.
To coin a summary i suppose i'll be a nautical aztec traveller who hangs our with kurt cobain and rides on a boat sipping whisky and listening to the pixies. It's a good look in my mind and fingers crossed it'll be one that works out and doesn't turn out too thrift store mess.






This is JW Anderson and it's just divine. The colours surprised me as they seemed to range from good-enough-to-eat oranges and purples to dusky colours that looked washed in delicately. The pleats in the skirt gave it a stylised look rather than looking jumbled and the arrangement of everything was the key to it's success. AND THOSE BOOTS! They look as though they've been dusted with snowflakes or some kind of magic dust that grants people wishes. And the fringing on the others was something to die for. The metal, pagan looking circles reminiscent of dreamcatchers, and the sweeping chiffon all contributed to quite a witchy vibe but updated for summer as the sheer maxi's in-which is something i'll be making and trailing around in with the summer blossom skimming the edge. The witchy vibe is something i've been channeling in winter with layers of wool, chiffon, lace and velvet and i think it's something that can be well translated to summer with less layers and lighter ones. These colours really work layered on top of one another as each one shines through the fabric. Stunning.



This is wonderfully nautical junya watanabe who is one of my favourite designers anyway but with the relaxed stripes and the layered feel it's definitely something i'll be using ebay and charity shops to attempt to replicate. The stripes are used in different directions which creates a great sense of pattern and stops them becoming repetitive. I could go on about how much i love this but they speak for themselves. This woman is quite high society i image as though she fools everybody of how nice she is when actually she enjoys a shot of tequila and singing irish folk songs when the yaught parties get boring and she sails off in a pea green boat.


Kenzo's possibly my favourite. Layering is always hard to do in summer as it can quickly become hot if you employ the wrong fabric on top of another however they seemed to do it whilst making the pieces look fresh, light and a breeze to wear which could, of course, be part of the whole illusion of how the fabric is cut and put together as, after all, this is the genius of a designer. The patterns reminded me of the lawns of doll houses and how quaint a stately home's tapestry's may look like. The hint at a silk bralette under it all was perfect to tie it all together and there's the naughty streak to employ and exploit in it all, after all it's always the innocent ones.
It all looks so easy and soft and delightful to wear and i'm made up that there's somebody who created something that means i can be inspired and wear my favourite floral jumpsuit which is divinely soft and loose enough to layer.
So as you can see i'm excited about summer fashion but i don't want snow, presents, family times and real coal fires to end just yet so i'll be inspired subtly by these and employ perhaps an ahead-of-the-time winter version.

Fashion inspiration...

Can be found in the strangest of places.
It seems that from s/s09's collections largely inspired by ice cream we've taken a dive head first into a sweet shop with sweet clothing that's simply good enough to eat. From s/s to winter now and we got the darker, deeper taste of liquorice as Bertie Bassets and Laduree macaroons inspired Miu Miu and Balenciaga's collections. Yet again we seem to have a sweet inspiration for s/s11 as we've gone full circle to sacharin, E number filled neon sweets that your mother always told you to stay away from . The ones we crave due to their influence on our hyperactive tendencies. Neon was seen at Christopher Kane as the ladylike vibes were translated yet again and pencil skirts and matching jackets in neon lace graced the catwalks leaving all women envious of these painfully bright ensembles. It also featured as a strong streak in Meadham Kirchhoff as they channeled chiffon layering that really reminded me of Rodarte a/w10. The layered colours and the candy shades were reminiscent of a rebellious marie antoinette with lots of frills and grunge acid bright hair and the odd leg warmer here and there. As we know of these guys you have to be someone who braves the new styles and isn't afraid to think outside the box to don these beautiful garments and there was a definite sense of the ideal woman to wear these. She's slightly kitsch; the sort of woman with lots of flowers and strange collectors items in her home and somebody who was a bit naughty at school. The collar was also carried on and the colours in the hair matched the clothes beautifully. These neon pioneers really got me thinking about in your face combinations and beautiful ways of layers and clashing but in a working way and i'll later post my outfit that was inspired by these sweet tooth saints.
There was also a definite gothic vibe with all of that floaty fabric and grey and black mixed with the gaudy tones looked like modern day witches with their crimson lips and their washed out hair hues.
In a word these collections were a winner. And nobody's blaming you for getting a craving for Wonka's Nerds.

...

Her stomach was showing slightly and the moon's milky rays cast dancing shadows across it in the dulled cold of the room. She swore and smiled and shadows danced with the tendrels of her locks and the conversation gradually slowed to a muted bliss. He had a faint scent of cologne, sweat and cigarette smoke. The smells clung to his hair and she inhaled deeply she felt at home wrapped in the smell of affection and brute machoness.
They'd spent the entire summer hand in hand, having picnics and reading to each other in enhanced accents and serious tones. Their passion rang deeper than the words that spilled from the pages and I knew things would never be the same between us all once this thing between them had commenced. It was complicated and an ache that throbbed in the hearts and stomachs of all the teenagers that we ever encountered. We were all suddenly extremely aware of our superficiality ; or at least the mess of it that we seemed to have fallen into.

From Russia with love

I've recently, out of nowhere, become rather infatuated with russian inspired fashion. The fur hats, the layered ruffles and the blatant embrace of the beauty of when the frost bites has really got my fashion ticker going and i've been looking into ways in which i can translate this into my own wardrobe. Like the minnie mouse trend this was something that popped into my head which, when looking into the fashion archives, I realised wasn't my doing at all-it has been subconsciously planted by the fashion gods.

Kenzo for example was somebody that i went to for inspiration with their fur trim everywhere and their lengthy coats in florid detailing and bohemian prints. Yes, it's an old season and according to the fashion cliche something that is 'so last year' is strictly forbidden as fashion inspiration. However i find this ridiculous and still consult old issues of catwalk reports as though they are forgotten pages from the bible. Or i refer to my many-a-scrapbook which doesn't JUST focus on the season at hand.

I was swept away by the wonderful mixture of prints, colours, textures and fabrics that went with this trend and cannot wait to start mixing it up in my own wardrobe and trying it out for myself. Hello winter-for this i won't mind you being cold:

s/s

Once again the punk side of me will come out to play this spring as-surprise, surprise-the dripping-in-leather biker look is back. However, as predictable as it was, it's really surprised me and some of my favourite quirky micro trends of a/w have been injected in when nobody was looking.
Christopher Bailey has once again made me swoon with his wicked ways with fabric, tailoring and celebration of the female form and power. His leather clad girls really stole my interest and here's why:

it seems that miu miu's innovative and nostalgic use of bertie basset liquorice colours, (even then a dark take on s/s10's candy floss pastel pallet), have been transformed into small adornments in this series of stunning pieces. Whether it be gaudy colour combinations of yellow and green or the small mint green belts, (again translated from winter's skinny belt), Bailey has succeeded in, yet again, tantalising our fashion taste buds.

I'm more than happy that leopard print has also been carried on as i'm not quite prepared to stop donning my mad men inspired faux fur jacket in leopard print. I love how from season to season something that is theoretically exactly the same, (a print, a cut, a fabric etc), gets transformed into something new without a completely different meaning and feeling in the wearer. I particular like the idea of walking holding the shoes-this seems to speak to me a lot as a girl who doesn't often wear heels i'm rather inspired by the strength of a woman who's willing to admit maybe it's not all about the heel and perhaps this is also a clever pun about the comfort of monsieur Bailey's clothing.

I'd love to pretend it's something from this collection that i'll be saving up for but i think even if i saved for months i would not be able to afford a statement piece. Perhaps a pair of tights if i'm lucky?

NEWYORK

Okay so i've neglected my blog COMPLETELY at the moment and i've severely missed it. But it's all going to be okay in the end - at least it will by march when i will be attempting to save enough to buy ANYTHING for s/s11.

Okay so once again i'm back to Alexander Wang. I just can't get enough of the new york grunge that he so effortlessly emulates.
In an interview shortly after the show he said; "Notice anything? NO BLACK!" which is of course one's first reaction. Watching these powerful, pure, angelic women strut down the runway there's something not quite right but you can't put your finger on it. Then the white hits you. There's no sludge shades and there's certainly no black. Except for the odd flash of gold and grey there isn't a colour in sight. But why? When challenged with this very question he himself used the word purity. There's a beautiful juxtaposition between the angelic crispness of the white and the military feel to it. His women are always so powerful and there's such a blast of presence when those wang girls walk creating a deep lust for the garments in anybody watching. The crispness emphasises the sharp angles and the starch structure. Watch out for Wang because you will undoubtedly want to be one of his sexy angels.

Fashionpiration.

My last mention of minnie mouse got me thinking. She's inspired fashion A LOT in the recent few seasons so i thought i'd take a look at who she's inspired. Even as lately as A/W'10 with Sonia Rykiel's giant pom poms on the top of the head and Celine's gigantic bow shoes the oversized elements to her look seem to be a big hit in the fashion world. I like looking at collections and thinking about strange things that may have influenced them. The Sonia Rykiel pompom outfit complete with big suit reminds me of just that. The big suit. I went to see stop making sense at the fact in liverpool two nights ago and it seems to be a prominent inspiration, yet again, with the suits trend. The big suit has already inspired a lot of designers such as Viktor and Rolf in the past as Byrne's visual art background is injected into his on stage wardrobe as he messes with perception and construction.
But back to minnie mouse.
I've put together quite a few outfits massively inspired by her lately with the key pieces: spotty bow, red, black and white and oversized adornments of all kinds. I think she has a definite 1950's sex appeal about her and i think that was something that a lot of designers tapped into this season. From Prada's waist cinching, calf skimming sillhouettes-Minnie's mentality was everywhere. I'm quite fascinated to see this after all this time because i've been inspired by her lately and didn't even realise that it's probably these subtle staple parts of her wardrobe and stature that have seeped into the fashion world that's tapped into my conscience.

Favourite looks-cigarette trousers.

These are pants that are very unflattering for most. But to those who's skinny pins they grace they are absolutely beautiful and whereas most people who experienced them the first time round will cringe at these ankle skimming beauties i will be embracing them come winter. Cold ankles will be a popular complaint in my household as I'm thinking these with opaque/thin socks poking out of the bottom. Or perhaps i'll go Prada hole hog and don some chunky arron ones to warm them.
My favourite creators of these were:
Isabel Marant.


The sheer 80's vibe of these two images alone is staggering but completely to die for at the same time. The zig zags on the knees gives a nod to the fashion mantra this season-less is more and the key is in the detailing. I love the colours as well. I have a vintage jaeger jumper that i got from a charity shop in shrewsbury that is this acid orange exactly and if i didn't already love it, this being the same colour has made me even more proud to don it.
The splash effect is very reminiscent of the previously mentioned art trend of 2008 S/S. There's also a sense of flame about the top and this goes with the entire ensemble. Sasha looks hot!

Celine:


The tiny ankles in black opaque socks looks so dainty and beautiful poking out of the bottom of Pheobe's stunning version. They're sleek and black and the perfect staple item. Where they may be accused of being too simple they're merely minimalistic to match everything and to work toward that every-so-A/W clean, cut womanly look.
I also loved the shoes. The huge bow as a nod to old school femininity and the hugeness of them really had a minnie mouse vibe, (who incidently has inspired my wardrobe rather a lot lately).

favourite looks-modern grunge.

I'll always see the arts merging into one and i am a firm believer that each aspect influences each other. Take the splattered paint trend of spring/summer 2008 headed by D&G's jackson pollock style gowns. Each aspect of the world of art influences the other and i feel this is very true of music as well. Grunge was a fashion trend hugely influenced, some may say created, by the faces of the music scene-sonic youth, kurt cobain, courtney love.
Well, the well-loved trend of the 90's was ressurrected in an extremely chic and feminine way this season and i'm a massive fan. Of course the inventors and pioneers of this trend would probably scoff at the floating skirts of the new version and the ultra sexy shapes and fabrics. However, this remains one of my favourite trends of A/W'10 and it's a look i will be working and will be able to do as the punk streak in me was a little anxious when first faced with the uber feminine, classy, sophisticated mood of the fall season.

Marc Jacobs

Not a bad word can be said about this collection. He covered many looks this being on of his best, (or at least one of my favourites).
His combination of colours was beautiful and the velvet drapery has a serious vintage feel. The subtle print of the flowers on the skirt gives the sense that it's previously been a throw in an aristocrats home. Obviously this being a noticable difference between the modern take and the frayed, worn and gender blurring 90's original. The contrast being the luxury feel. In fact this look is all about contrast between the two components. About layering as well as cut it's about combining comfort and sex appeal. The drape and lightweightedness of the skirt juxtaposes beautifully with the arron jumper and should be worn this way- a new skirt that makes you feel a million dollars combined with an old family favourite jumper-chunky or sleek the key feature is the homegrown and personal feel to it. The idea that you could turn up to a party cosy and sophisticated at the same time is a god send.
This is a look i will definitely be working this winter and i think Marc has done a brilliant job. I love the colours used-again they are slightly brighter shades than the sludges of the kurt generation of grunge kids but they are certainly toned down.

Erdem


This fashion house being the front shot for the vogue catwalk report and also winning elle's best fashion designer award they certainly know what they're doing. The make-up was one of the subtleties that really pulled the looks together and 'heroine chic'-to pen a disgustingly outdated phrase that i didn't like to begin with-was written all over the faces of the models. With a beautifully odd choice of shades from burnt sienna oranges to navys and flashes of bright blue and red, again, Erdem turned this classic trend on its head and injected femininity and subtle bursts of colour whilst still managing to remain relaxed and with a hint of rebellion.
The girls who sport this look are a new and very modern woman. The girls who know how to dress elegantly but with discreet hints at a rebellious and anarchic nature. She's rebellious in her political views rather than the typical smoking behind bike sheds and she's utterly, utterly seductive. But in the classiest of ways. She's definitely ladylike but with a flare for nautiness and cheek.
Not only were the skirt and jumper ensembles flawless the collection was also dripping with beautiful detailing and other key aspects such as the cape, which was again embellished with flashes of blue and red in darling prints, hiking boots to die for in blood crimson and floral print, a leather skirt and a dominatrix trench. All hail Erdem.

D&G


There's really little you can explain about the D&G collection the clothing speaks for itself. Christmas jumpers in cherry red complete with snowflakes and built in cosiness. Poppy print sheer skirts contrast-like marc's genius ensembles-to create an alluring warming feel to the woman who wears them. She's complete with a womanly figure, sheer elements to peek at her best features and a skinny belt to cinch in her waist. A brilliant celebration of the female form and in the most equisitte tailoring and fabrics.

For full collection coverage: www.style.com

models off duty

As Tavi has wisely pointed out in her homage to model off-duty looks that aren't just bomber jackets and super-duper-skinny jeans, this girl combines prints, acid brights and craziness like noone else. She has extreme hippy elements but a pioneer of layering. Her textures are amazing as well, she combines leather docs with velvet a lot and she's always clashing colours and prints. A challenger of the colour wheel. She's a girl that, whenever i doubt myself fashionably and strike a style blank, i look to her for inspiration. She's really brave and innovative and she's a model with a look to actually celebrate. As a person as well she challenges the air head stereotype of a model. Everybody should check out interviews with her, she seems like she would be amazing to hang with. When asked what she does in her spare time she replied 'me and friends have pancake parties'. She also had an art exhibition and art certainly is an element that's expressed in her attire. I really admire her dress sense and i think she's a pioneer for difference and bringing back the message that fashion is art. And clothes are a way of showing the world who you are and how creative you are. Gold stars for Iekeliene

Tatiana Cotliar. I must say she's another girl i look up to for layers sake! She's another one with etherial looks and a very casual hair style that compliments the clothes beautifully. She pairs patterns together extremely well, (the spots on her tights matching the top of the body) and i love the subtle vintage hints.

Elle competiton

The first thing that springs to mind when sifting through my own shoe collection is my reaction to first seeing a particular pair. My first pair of brogues, for instance, were from Kurt Geiger and when my mother gave in to letting me try one on, (for she knew once it slid on my foot like Cinderella’s slipper there would be no going back for her bank account), I sunk into child mode. ‘Oh please, please, please Mum! I’ll wear them ALL the time. I need them Mum. Really, really need them.
Eyes bulging at the price, I could see her palms gathering sweat and becoming clammy at the thought of indulging ME in a pair of Kurt Geiger brogues. Because of course this is every Mother’s dilemma. Buying a pair of expensive shoes that she will never get a chance to wear herself seems ludicrous! However this proves the point. Women are willing to pay to embellish their feet more than they are for anything else. The age old womanly obsession with either bag or shoe seems to overrule all other fashion lust. When you fall in love with a pair of shoes that’s a bond that lasts a lifetime, (whether it the human’s life or the shoe’s). The average woman when asked this question would simply scream out, ‘YES OF COURSE!’ Perhaps afterwards biting her lip and realising, actually, perhaps the money needed to buy, yet another pair of shoes, could possibly be spent on something more important.But what’s more important than shoes? They make you taller or sleeker. They complete an outfit. They embellish a part of the human body that a lot of people fear to expose or are slightly squeamish about. Shoes are simply magical.When caressing the heels and features of my shoes-the suede of a boot, the wooden heel of an S/S10 clog, brushing the indentations on my 6 pairs of brogues, old and new; only one thing comes to mind: just how beautiful they all are. Just how worthy they were of the money I handed over in exchange for these stunning creations.
But this still doesn’t answer the question. Yes, shoes are extremely important in a wardrobe and a lifestyle-but what is women’s obsession with owning every possible style of shoe available? When a new season is showcased and the suspense of what we will all be wearing for the autumn or the summer is broken, the anticipation is built up and the first model struts along the runway we see what out feet will be wearing as well. What if you don’t own the shoe everybody’s talking about? As a ski boot D&G style stomps past you or perhaps a kitten heel steps past you in the street, a fear sets in. You don’t have that shoe. In the entirety of your collection lies not one pair of sheep lined boots. There’s a rush of adrenaline as you see the rest of the collection of course. There’s a definite ache of need for a Burberry flying jacket and some Rodarte-esque tulle layers. But really your heart sinks when you realise the look will never be complete without the shoe. Yet more money will have to be spent on a shoe that’s in keeping with this season’s trends. Lucky for most women shoes are very recyclable and reusable things. From season to season the same kind of shoe pops up and the average woman can save at least that section of her spending. However it’s entirely necessary to buy the ones missing if they don’t already grace your ensemble. This may be greeted with a faux worry and we may pretend to be irritated or anxious as we near bankruptcy by boot yet again. But really we’re excited. The desire for that boot, shoe, brogue or heel; sandal, shoot or stiletto takes over and out worry is override. Because, yes, we do really, really, really need yet another pair of shoes. Because what could be more fun to purchase?

Dolce and Gabbana

Day 12-Whatever tickles your fancy.

All eyes on Alexander Wang. Now that we all know what Autumn/Winter is going to look like on the fashion side of things, bitten nails and hopping, excited girls are everywhere anticipating the jumper dresses, floaty skirts and long grungey cardigans that contrast with the season that they will belong to. Personally, my eyes are less on the weather forcast and more on the calender as i'm counting down the days to see how the highstreet will attempt to make an affordable version of the beautiful creations that strutted, strolled and floated down the catwalk.
Alexander wang in particular caught my eye. The women he sent down the catwalk were clad in chunky over the knee socks, jackets almost reminiscent of straight jackets and-as usual-a very monochrome, clean palette. Pinstriped jackets that reach just above the knee leaving a small line of leg is ultimately sexy and gives the impression of a smart all-in-one. His creations would be to die for in the office and his office worker woman would definitely turn heads. There was an extreme sense of power to his clothing this season and all of his woman seemed to be very strong characters. A Wang woman takes crap from noone. There was almost a hint of matrix style straps and this ties in with the power creating a super hero sense to the women who don his clothing.
Saying this he still managed grace and the detailing is equisite with folds, pockets and buttons that really bring the pieces to life. The subtle hints at figure and peeks of flesh keep the clothing sexy and modern whilst the leather, office tailoring and neutral colours keep it clean-cut and sophisticated. Well done Wang.

Day 11-A photo you've taken recently

Here's a photo of some ducks i took in Shrewsbury two thursdays ago. It was such a stunning place and i was surprised that i'd never heard, or somehow been compelled to go before. There was endless ammounts of charity shops filled with unthinkably beautiful hand-me-downs and cast offs and i got some amazing thrifty buys. There was also tonnes of amazing little pattisseries and cheese shops. The place was just generally beautiful, quaint and a typically cosy town. I will definitely be going again and i suggest you do to. I love this photograph because the duck looks like it's in a really intimate position. It's a very personal photograph with the duck cleaning its plumage. I love how the water looks silver and it looks as though it's been photoshopped but this was merely the magic of light.

Day 10-A photo of me taken over 10 years ago

I'm not sure how long ago this was taken-i think it was either 10 or 11 years ago. The air was crisp and the tangy ache of salt was in the air and my toes had been squished into wet sand and countless sand castles made and crumbled by the ebbing flow of the tide. I loved the sea as a child. This is me and my Dad.

Day 9-A photo i've taken

This is another photo of Laura i'm proud of because i was messing around with shutter speeds and due to a very slow one managed to layer two images of her pulling different faces-the effect is she looks as though she has the ghost of herself layered over her face.

day 8-A photo that makes you angry/sad

Okay, so i'm not exactly doing this by the book. I'm leaving it a few days and doing 5 days at once but i like it this way. Means i can have a break from the computer and have one long creative splurge.

This makes me sad because all the greatest heroes of mine have died young.

Day 7-A photograph that makes you happy

This makes me very happy. This is a photograph of me and my best friend Laura. This is one of the only photos i like of me smiling but only because it's with her and it was real laughter.

Day 6-Whatever tickles your fancy

This tickles my fancy right about now. This is Tim Walker who's my favourite photographer. His work is just beautiful.

He's English and it's very obvious in the photographs that he takes and the compositions he arranges that he's very quintessential and the quaint quirks in his photographs declare his naitonality with great patriarchy. He uses a lot of props in his photographs and blows unusual items up to gigantic scales, (Lily Cole is famously photographed caught in a gigantic fishing net and Coco Rocha is found leaning on a giant ladies glove-both shoots for vogue). His playful and childlike nature is said, by himself, to be greatly inspired by Cecil Beaton. There are certain aspects that mirror Beaton's composition and genius behind the arrangement of the scene and the mood created by whoever the subject is. Walker's work is so appealing to me due to the prominent playfullness inside; he offers and coaxes this out greatly with his sense of wonderland and the fictional aspect to most of his photo shoots. He usually creates massive props and the models seem never to be serious. Their facial expressions, or the mood they create is that of the audience of the photograph-joy. You want to climb into the photograph and be part of this fantasy world. I remember the first photograph i saw by him, i think was the India shoot with Ikeliene stange. I'd never seen a fashion shoot like this before-I was used to quite formal and chic shoots focusing on the clothes rather than the set and the theatricality of the photograph itself. It blew me away because once I'd seen more of his photographs it was obvious it was him, with his quirky and wonderful style of creating this oversized, intense scene seems to come alive upon the page and that, after all, is the point of art-to entertain. We are supposed to be entertained by art and, a lot of the time, transported to another place or another time or another person's head-Tim's head is a wonderful place to be and his dandy world of quintessential Britain will always be my favourite scene for a photograph.